IN SHORT: I packed my bag again ready to hit the road and devoured a big breakfast to set me up for a day. On the way out of town I called into the Killer Whale Museum to meet ‘Old Tom’ the most important link in the chain of an extraordinary relationship between killer whales and the men who hunted others of their species. It is said that in the 1840s three pods of up to fifty killer whales worked a cooperative – they herded, harassed to tire and guarded against the escape of the humpback and southern right whales, effectively working as cattle dogs.
Farther down the road I turned off the Princes Highway to Mallacoota, I was enjoying the windy road until I rounded a bend and found a Winnebago who wasn’t. It was doing 10kms an hour and taking corners like a golf buggy on a ski run. 20kms later I pulled into the car park on the inlet – such a calm morning, pelicans waited around as fisherman cleaned their mornings catch and people strolled by taking in the view.
From Mallacoota I continued West, as I drove I pulled out a map to see how far to the next town. A while was spent unfolding it and rotating it until I realised it was a map of New South Wales and no longer useful. The next town of any consequence was Cann River, I called into the petrol station for water and continued on to Orbost to meet my guide! We made our way to the Bodribb River Jetty and boarded the Curlip Paddle Steamer, later venturing out to the beaches at Marlo and Cape Conran. That afternoon I travelled another 50kms to Lakes Entrance and checked into a B&B. From the property’s commanding position on the hillside I was afforded extensive views over Bass Strait and a warm welcome. Retreating to my secluded haven I curled up in bed to write.
TIP: It’s not foggy it’s just time to wash the windscreen!
TRACK: No Rain – Blind Melon